“Derek Lucci, our wonderful contributor of Thai recipes, has given me an entire new perspective on drunken noodles. Firstly, his model is way more distinct from the pad see ew–esque renditions many US eating places dole out. And secondly, you barely even want the noodles—and that is not a foul factor. What this dish is actually all about are these screaming flavors that smack, drop-kick, and noogie your tongue all of sudden. It is intensely spicy with layered chile warmth, loudly fragrant with literal mouthfuls of lime leaf, and suffused with the natural efficiency of basil (ideally holy basil, however Thai basil works in a pinch, even when the flavour is completely different). That is the type of factor I would run out my door to seize the requisite components, then flash up in a wok for a filling snack each time the temper strikes or my sinuses want clearing or I simply need each final one in all my sensory neurons lit as much as remind me that I am nonetheless alive and kicking regardless of this chilly, darkish month.” —Daniel Gritzer, editorial director