The Turkish rapper Ezhel paints a considerably bleak image of his hometown of Ankara in his hit tune “The Style of My Metropolis.” In a catchy, auto-tuned hook he lists the flavors the town leaves in his mouth: “soot, rust, grime, coal, plastic, trash, tires, exhaust, weed.”
No disrespect to one among Turkey’s most prolific fashionable songwriters, however when Sprudge spent 5 days within the Turkish capital for the 2024 Turkish Barista Championship, we principally tasted scrumptious espresso.
Specialty espresso in Turkey remains to be synonymous with Istanbul, however at present Ankara is able to throw off its popularity as a colorless authorities city and able to take its rightful place within the Turkish specialty espresso highlight. A handful of espresso corporations are serving to prepared the ground, and belong on any espresso lover’s itinerary for visiting Ankara.
Tetra N Roasters
Tetra N Roastery wears its hometown pleasure loud and proud. Its motto, “From Ankara with Love,” is boldly printed on the aspect of their espresso baggage in brilliant orange letters. Most not too long ago, the corporate confirmed its place as one among Turkey’s prime roasters when their manufacturing roaster Nida Fetullahoğlu received the 2024 Turkish Brewers Cup, occurring to characterize her nation on the world stage in Chicago at SCA Expo.
Whether or not it’s a cool, anaerobic-processed espresso from cult Colombia producer Jairo Arcila or a basic washed Kenya, there’s one thing right here for everybody. Tetra N operates a restaurant close to Center East Technical College and their roastery could be visited by particular association.
Hound Espresso & Eatery
Anıl Tabak was fairly actually raised within the hospitality trade. His household operates the favored Ankara restaurant Çiçek Lokantası, which gives regional specialties the quaint means, which is to say, exceptionally nicely.
However Tabak wished to blaze his personal path. In 2018 he opened Hound Espresso & Eatery. The corporate started roasting its personal espresso in 2021. At Hound’s two Anakara cafes guests can count on light-roasted single origin coffees brewed by the cup, along with hand-picked free leaf tea from Turkey’s Black Sea area. For Tabak, it’s all about giving again to the group that raised him.
“The espresso group in Ankara is a really curious group of researchers,” says Tabak. “They’ve at all times supported and inspired us native espresso roasters with their ardour.”
6A Specialty Espresso
Berlin is residence to one among Europe’s largest Turkish diaspora communities, so it ought to come as no shock the German Turkish group performs a giant position in metropolis’s espresso scene. With the opening of 6A Specialty Espresso in Ankara’s Aziziye neighborhood, a bit of Berlin espresso tradition finds its means again to Turkey. 6A frequently options espresso Berlin roasters like 5 Elephant and The Barn on supply by the cup.
We sampled a Kamwangi AA, Kenya roasted by 5 Elephant, hand-brewed by 6A’s head barista, Tayfun Doğan. Lovers of a basic washed Kenya profile is not going to be disenchanted: flavors of hibiscus and purple currant have been supported by a grapefruit zest end.
With its textured concrete wall, colourful wallpapered roof, and mushy, supporting picket options, the inside design at 6A is as considerate because the espresso manufacturing. It’s no shock that regardless of being one among Ankara’s latest cafes, it’s already grow to be common amongst the town’s diplomats.
Kakule Kahve
From the black and white rattan chairs to the ocean inexperienced accents—even the La Marzocco KB90 is in on the colour scheme—Kakule Kahve feels extra Parisian than Anatolian. The cafe options roasters from round Turkey, corresponding to Izmir’s Lot Espresso, however maybe the primary purpose to come back right here is for the stainless French-inspired pastry.
In Turkey, espresso is nearly at all times served with meals, and the meals program at Kakule is prime notch. Whether or not it’s the exquisitely-piped dacquoise or apple pie French toast made with the home brioche, it’s straightforward to see why Kakule has grow to be the it spot for Ankara’s influencers to get their brunch pics.
Rispetto
Ankara’s Bahçelievler neighborhood is residence to a staggering numbering of coffees outlets. Sprudge counted not less than 9 cafes of varied second-wave stripes and sizes whereas circling the block looking for parking.
However earlier than opening a espresso store turned a development, there was Rispetto. By most accounts Rispetto was the primary specialty espresso store in Ankara, and that singular deal with offering prospects with a greater cup of espresso continues to at present.
“We like filter espresso,” says Rispetto founder Nihan Aytar as she pours us a cup of El Refugio, Colombia, a cool, fruity pure course of espresso roasted by Istanbul’s Espresso Dept.
Aytar left behind her profession as a meals engineer after discovering a ardour for specialty espresso. That zeal turned out to be is contagious. Throughout our go to, common prospects have been greeted by title. A number of instructed Sprudge this was their favourite espresso store. It’s straightforward to see why.
Paper Roasting Espresso & Chocolate
In Ankara, one isn’t far-off from Paper Roasting. The roaster/retailer boasts 5 cafes across the metropolis along with three different areas throughout Turkey.
Paper’s roastery and HQ in Ankara’s Yıldız neighborhood options an expansive upstairs seating space and a coaching lab the place proprietor Uğur Asilsoy gives SCA courses. Along with the house-roasted espresso, Paper gives quite a lot of glass brewing gear designed in partnership with native laboratory gear producer Saha.
Michael Butterworth is a espresso educator and guide based mostly in Istanbul, Turkey. Learn extra Michael Butterworth for Sprudge.
