The story of Gesha is a outstanding one. In line with World Espresso Analysis, this extremely sought-after selection was initially discovered within the forests of Ethiopia within the Nineteen Thirties. From there, it was despatched to analysis institutes in Tanzania, Kenya, and Costa Rica earlier than making its solution to Panama within the Sixties. Since then, the nation has turn out to be synonymous with Gesha, largely because of high-end auctions like Better of Panama (BoP) and World Espresso Championships such because the World Barista Championship.

At auctions like BoP, washed Geshas have their very own class, with pure Geshas and different varieties competing in separate classes. All classes carry out nicely on the scoresheet and obtain excessive costs.

Gesha’s distinctive cup high quality and floral traits are sometimes greatest highlighted by washed processing strategies. In flip, washed Geshas are likely to carry out nicely at auctions like BoP.

There’s, nonetheless, loads of potential for variety inside Gesha, significantly in ongoing innovation in processing. In recent times, Panamanian producers have been experimenting with completely different strategies to create completely new flavour profiles for Gesha with out compromising its inherent cup traits.

To be taught extra, I spoke to David Disuanco, the advertising supervisor at Archers Espresso, and Kai Janson, a producer at Janson Espresso. 

You might also like our article on why there is no such thing as a “greatest” origin for Gesha.

How Panama turned synonymous with Gesha

Though it originated in Ethiopia and now grows in an rising variety of producing international locations, Gesha is probably mostly related to Panama.

Through the Nineteen Thirties, researchers collected seeds from Ethiopia and despatched them to Kenya and Tanzania, the place the range was first recorded as “Geisha” – a typical variation of its identify. Within the Fifties, the UN’s Meals and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) despatched a number of the seedlings to the Tropical Agricultural Analysis and Larger Schooling Centre (CATIE) in Costa Rica.

CATIE then provided the seeds to the Panamanian authorities, which distributed them to farms in Boquete. One in every of them was Hacienda La Esmeralda, which modified Gesha’s trajectory within the specialty espresso market within the early 2000s.

Led by the Specialty Espresso Affiliation of Panama and first launched in 1996, the BoP competitions and auctions have allowed the nation’s producers to firmly set up themselves within the specialty espresso market, showcasing really distinctive high quality Gesha.

On the 2004 public sale, Hacienda La Esmeralda bought one in every of its Geshas for US $21/lb. This set a brand new world document for the very best worth ever paid for a espresso and sparked worldwide curiosity within the selection, which nonetheless persists at the moment.

Growing competitors

David Disuanco is the Advertising and marketing Supervisor at specialty roaster Archers Espresso in Sharjah, the United Arab Emirates. The corporate persistently buys Panamanian Gesha and not too long ago efficiently bid on a number of coffees on the 2024 BoP public sale.

“Through the years, we’ve got seen an increasing number of Panamanian producers attempt to rank extremely on the BoP competitors,” he says. “Annually, the competitors will get more difficult as producers turn out to be extra meticulous, inventive, and revolutionary with their farming and processing strategies. This drives all contributors to enhance and elevate high quality constantly.

“Producers are additionally changing into extra diligent with cherry choice, hand-picking and sorting solely the ripest ones,” he provides. “They’ve services that permit them to regulate particular parameters, resembling custom-built processing tanks and darkish rooms for drying.”

Archers not too long ago efficiently bid on a number of coffees on the 2024 BoP public sale and secured limited-quantity tons from greater than 30 of the nation’s most distinguished estates. Archers’ co-founder, Head of Operations, and inexperienced purchaser, Frederick Bejo, who can be the UAE’s 2024 Brewer’s Cup Champion, was invited as a visitor cupper to this yr’s public sale. 

“That is our craziest Panama Gesha assortment, perhaps even the best espresso assortment we’ve got had and encountered thus far,” he says.

Why do washed coffees carry out so nicely at BoP?

Panama’s terroir makes its Gesha really distinctive. The nation’s volcanic soil and various terrain create distinct microclimates, leading to extremely complicated and delicate flavours.

Kai Janson is a producer on the pioneering Panamanian farm Janson Espresso, with which Archers Espresso works carefully.

“The nation’s espresso sector is passionate and devoted to steady innovation, from pioneers just like the Petersons, Lamastuses, and my household – the Jansons,” he says. “Producers pay shut consideration to each facet of manufacturing, from soil well being to fermentation to drying, to ship the very best cup.”

When grown at excessive altitudes, Panama Gesha has an exceptionally excessive cup high quality, with nuanced floral, jasmine, and fruity aromas and tasting notes. To focus on these as a lot as doable, many producers go for washed processing.

“Washed Panama Gesha is usually thought of the purest type of expression of the range because it showcases terroir with out having an excessive amount of affect over the flavours within the cup,” Kai says. “It’s additionally one of the vital difficult processing strategies, however it elevates the standing of Panama Gesha to an elite stage.”

Distinctive cup high quality with washed processing is clearly evident. On the 2023 BoP public sale, a washed 96.5-point Gesha from Carmen Property obtained an unimaginable bid of US $10,005/kg – one of many highest costs ever paid for espresso.

Embracing the range of Gesha by way of processing

Whereas the washed course of could stay the preferred processing technique for Gesha, an rising variety of producers in Panama are experimenting with completely different strategies.

Many are discovering success, too, receiving exceptionally excessive scores and eye-watering costs. On the 2024 Lamastus Household Estates public sale, the farm bought a honey processed 3kg lot for US $40,554 – or US $13,518 per kilogram – breaking the world document past all expectations.

Some producers are pushing innovation even additional past the standard washed, pure, and honey processing strategies. One instance is Altieri Specialty Espresso, which works with Archers Espresso to develop pioneering new strategies that unlock a spectrum of flavours in Gesha. 

“River move fermentation is a method we experimented with throughout the 2022/23 harvest,” the Altieri workforce says. “We measured how temperature impacts bacterial exercise and the way warmth transfers in a different way in liquid in comparison with air. To realize this, we anaerobically fermented contemporary cherries in sealed silage plastic luggage beneath operating water.”

The Altieri workforce explains how this helps keep a constant temperature of 12°C (54°F), whereas stagnant water would enhance the temperature. To dry the espresso, the cherries are positioned in a darkish room maintained at 18°C (64°F).

“The river move fermentation course of leads to a fruitier flavour profile as a substitute of a wine-like one,” the Altieri workforce tells me. “To our shock, the low-temperature fermentation created floral notes. The depth will increase as you lengthen the fermentation hours, however the floral notes stay, enhancing notes of jasmine and including complexity to the cup.”

Along with processing strategies, Panamanian producers are additionally specializing in different farm-level enhancements. Some are planting new timber to provide better-quality espresso within the coming years, whereas others are pruning vegetation to optimise nutrient absorption to enhance cherry improvement.

How roasters and occasional outlets can showcase the very best of Gesha

Shopping for Gesha could be an thrilling enterprise for espresso outlets and roasters, permitting them to showcase wonderful espresso and distinctive flavour profiles. Furthermore, as the range is such a novel promoting level, together with Gesha on bar or as a part of retail choices helps cafés and roasteries to distinguish their manufacturers.

There are lots of methods to supply Gesha, however collaborating in auctions could be one of the vital efficient to achieve entry to high-quality tons with attention-grabbing cup profiles. In recent times, Panamanian auctions have included an more and more big selection of processing strategies, too. This enables espresso companies to faucet into the range of Gesha and supply new experiences to prospects.

David explains that Archers Espresso not too long ago bought 4 tons on the 2024 BoP public sale, together with: 

• An Adaura Gesha that ranked seventh within the naturals class
• A Luis Santamaria lot which ranked eighth within the naturals and ninth within the varietals classes, respectively
• A washed lot from Janson Espresso’s Las Alpes Property 
• The La Higa Non-public Reserve Janson Gesha lot

“We bought these coffees as they had been the very best tons that suited each our wants as a enterprise and our prospects’ preferences,” he says. He provides that these particular coffees had been chosen for his or her vibrant floral, citrus, and tropical fruit notes, in addition to a particular mixture of pink and purple cherries.

Cuppings as a great tool

To introduce the native espresso neighborhood of roasters, baristas, and residential brewers to the range of Panamanian Gesha, David explains that Fred led a BoP-style cupping at Archers Espresso. This allowed the corporate’s baristas and roasters to grasp the complexity of those coffees on a deeper stage, bettering their abilities and information.

“As we persistently present high-quality Gesha, shopper notion of high quality additionally evolves and improves,” says David. “They ask extra questions, turn out to be extra curious, and begin appreciating the trouble that goes into the espresso. 

“They start to inquire extra in regards to the producer, the processing strategies, and even usually ignored particulars, resembling how a producer’s espresso tastes completely different this yr in comparison with final,” he provides.

Archers Espresso not too long ago launched its Final Panama Assortment, together with high-quality Gesha tons from greater than 15 Panamanian producers. The primary launch options 22 tons from eight producers, with further tons to be launched within the coming weeks.

As one of the vital highly-prized varieties on the earth, Gesha has made a long-lasting mark on the specialty espresso business. Modern processing strategies and steady investments in manufacturing are opening up new methods to expertise this espresso.

Espresso outlets and roasters can supply Gesha processed in a spread of strategies to showcase the range’s flavour variety. By doing so, prospects can expertise Gesha in methods they by no means have earlier than, giving espresso companies a aggressive edge.

Loved this? Then learn our article on why some roasters are prepared to spend US $10,000/kg on Gesha.

Picture credit: Archers Espresso

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