It was the Dutch who launched espresso to Japan within the seventeenth century, and for the reason that Meiji period, the seed has been steadily gaining floor on Kyōto’s matcha. This shift could also be partly as a consequence of examination tradition or to Kyōtoites’ fondness for bread (which, I’m instructed, pairs nicely with college cram periods), however regardless of the cause, espresso is right here to remain within the Heian capital. Inoda Espresso has develop into a de facto vacationer web site, Unir’s Tomoko Yamamoto received the 2018 Japan Barista Championship (JBC), and gravity-assisted chilly brew fashioned drip by drip in glass is quick turning into an emblem of Kyōto espresso.
Locations, like individuals, change, so it is just pure to ask how a lot Kyōto has advanced since Sprudge’s final information to town, printed in 2018. In 2020, Gentle Up Espresso shuttered its operations in Kyōto, each Weekenders Espresso and Kurasu have opened new roasteries, and % Arabica’s empire has grown to 206 shops worldwide.
Our earlier suggestions nonetheless stand, however after sifting via 33 new cafes in seven of Kyōto’s wards, we determined to focus on eight extra outlets value visiting. Every has been vetted for value, service, and ambiance–however above all else, espresso.
Let’s start south of Kyōto Station in Fushimi, then sip our means north to Kita ward. Sōda, Kyōto ni ikō!
About Us Espresso
Single origins pair nicely with origin tales. About Us Espresso’s Yasunari Sawanoi enrolled in L’ecole Vantan with a style for light-roasted Ethiopias and an urge for food for freedom. In 2019, Yasunari left the style world to open About Us in Fushimi, however six months later, COVID struck. Impeccable beans, loyal clients, and profitable crowdfunding eased two robust years of enterprise. After which in 2022, redemption got here. Yasunari’s Ethiopia Niguse Gemeda Mude received him first place at Tōkyō’s Espresso Assortment competitors, and Yasunari earned his sensory decide certificates for each the JBC and the Japan Brewer’s Cup (JBrC).
I attempted About Us’s opulent “Espresso Expertise Course,” courtesy of the Sanremo Café Racer: a cut up double shot–one straight, the opposite in a latte–which got here with a card itemizing my beans’ bona fides. My Ethiopia West Arsi Mewa was neat and peachy with honey undertones. Storied espresso certainly.
Solkatt Espresso Kyoto
For a fast jolt close to Tō-ji, take a look at Solkatt Espresso Kyoto. Junpei Yamamoto, Solkatt’s founder, has racked up over 16 years of baristaship in Kyōto, Ōsaka, and Berlin. After a brief stint manning the Aremde at pop-up Black Cat Espresso, Junpei renovated his father’s bike store, then in September 2024, debuted Solkatt.
At Solkatt’s blue-graded bar, you possibly can order from simply 5 gadgets: espressos, sizzling or iced lattes, and iced or pour-over espresso. My light-roasted Kieni Kenya AB doppio was exceptionally advanced: acidic, and with hints of brown sugar and currant.
Junpei says that not too many vacationers cease by but, however that’s positive to alter. The thoughts behind Solkatt radiates a heat befitting his store’s identify: in Swedish, solkatt refers to daylight’s play on glass.
Goodman Roaster Kyoto
“Discover one thing lovely and shine a lightweight on it.” That is Atsuomi Itō’s credo at Goodman Roaster Kyoto, although it took him seven years to carry Taiwan’s gentle roasts to Japan.
Again in 2013, Mount Alishan espresso had the status for being “actually dangerous… and costly,” however Atsuomi noticed its potential. Strapped for money, a father, and unable to talk Taiwanese, he purchased some beans from Alishan and offered $1,400 value at Taipei Songshan Airport. The Tōkyō native then began 4 cafes in Taiwan and one in Hong Kong, nevertheless it wasn’t till 2020 that Atsuomi purchased a five-kilogram Diedrich and inaugurated Goodman Roaster in Kyōto’s Shimogyō ward.
I tasted the Taiwan Alishan Yangui Espresso Farm hand drip; it was pleasantly cherry-forward and oolong-flavored. Up till then, I had by no means heard of Alishan espresso. I assume the highlight lastly discovered it.
Iolite Espresso Roasters
Iolite Espresso Roasters is a gem in Nakagyō. Daisuke Yoshida arrange his cafe in his grandfather’s outdated wagashiya (sweets store), however Iolite’s redesign resists Shōwa maximalism. Clear cedar beams span the ceiling, and a bar stretches to a neat again nook. By the door, a Fortunate stands prepared.
The menu ranges from hotdogs to curry quiche, and even a coffee-and-liqueur-infused matcha roll. Daisuke extracted my solo Ethiopia Benti Nenka on his La Marzocco Linea, and I nonetheless might have gone for a second digestif–maybe a China Yunnan or a Rwanda Simbi CWS?
As I contemplated the menu, vacationers plotted their subsequent strikes in Kyōto–acceptable, as Iolite takes its identify from a gem that sailors as soon as used to orient themselves at sea.
HUMAN MADE 1928 Cafe
James Freeman has gone from promoting his wares out of a Peugeot wagon to promoting shares to Nestlé, however his brainchild, Blue Bottle, has proven a flexibility that belies its company rap. The Rokkaku Cafe is undeniably fairly, as is the HUMAN MADE 1928 Cafe–one other constructing that blends the architecturally trad and mod (and see Mix Kyoto).
The metal-sleek 1928 Cafe occupies the previous places of work of the Mainichi newspaper, and the area has been revamped to supply two blends of Ethiopia and Peru beans. The Previous Mix is a darkish roast, the Future Mix a lightweight roast, and each are wonderful.
The spotlight of the 1928 Cafe, nonetheless, is on the constructing’s north aspect. Toss a 100-yen coin into the jukebox there and choose an ‘80s J-pop tune to blast over to the south aspect. You’ve purchased the ticket to Kyōto. So why not take the trip?
Cafe Loto Kyoto
The Japanese are masters at synthesizing disparate elements into an entire, and Cafe Loto Kyoto proves this to a T. Yasushi Horibe Architect & Associates designed Loto’s facade to slot in with Furumonzen-dōri’s machiya (townhouses); inside, Loto’s oval bar hosts a suave, olive inexperienced Mavam espresso machine.
As for espresso, Junichi Yamaguchi of Kyōto’s Right here created a shop-specific mixture of Guatemala and Brazil beans (and, I’ll add, Junichi was the 2014 Espresso Fest Latte Artwork World Champion). Confectionary extraordinaire Masayo Takeda makes scrumptious madeleines, scones, and monaka (crimson bean paste with crispy mochi), and she or he affords culinary workshops on the second flooring.
Loto’s is a grand trifecta of fashion, sweets, and ‘spro. Positively go to if you end up close to Gion.
Coyote Roastery
Are you aware what coyotes are? In trade phrases, they’re middlemen who join espresso farmers and exporters for a reduce of the earnings. Yūsuke Kadokawa of Coyote Roastery is one such coyote, partnering with Central American farmers to share their harvests with you.
Yūsuke lived in El Salvador for 2 years with the Japan Worldwide Cooperation Company (JICA), and there he constructed connections with Chalatenango espresso and its farmers. Six years and three outlets later, Yūsuke nonetheless sources every bean from Chalatenango, having them shipped straight to his roastery (and Easyster) in Kyōto’s Sakyō ward.
Coyote Roastery collaborates domestically as nicely. My Modbar-pulled Don Jaime Pacamara was a tart and engaging shot, introduced in a cup from close by Donoma Studio. Specialty store Wrap crafts Coyote’s luscious dorayaki (crimson bean pancake), and final yr, Yūsuke hosted a joint sales space on the World Specialty Espresso Convention (SCAJ) with Kōbe’s Zef Espresso Arts. Such sturdy partnerships profit all concerned
Tasuku Espresso
Head north to Kyōto’s Kita ward for a “black” at Tasuku Espresso, the idiosyncratic final cease on our record.
Tasuku brings to thoughts Mad Max: a development tarp drapes the bar, plastic cartons act as seats, and flyers, rocks, and flotsam deck the partitions.
This bric-a-brac design strategy is acutely aware: proprietor Tasuku Kawai will get each his Wooden and Co Espresso beans and his store’s eclecticism from Melbourne. Tasuku handed me my Twin Peaks mix Ethiopia and Colombia “brief black” in a smiley-faced demitasse, and my shot was sturdy and chocolatey–a real style of the Land Down Underneath.
Tasuku serves “whites” with Hida milk from Gifu (rule 46: “milk sourcing issues”), and for vegan choices, there’s soy or Ave Natur’s oat milk. However on the finish of the day, any espresso you order at Tasuku can be pure magic.
Michael Joseph is a contract journalist and photographer based mostly in Hiroshima. Learn extra Michael Joseph for Sprudge.
