We converse to Tú, the creator of the Phinoi filter, about his store’s pay-as-you-feel mannequin and his perception in fantastic robusta.

BY VASILEIA FANARIOTI
SENIOR ONLINE CORRESPONDENT

Photographs courtesy of Vu Dình Tú

In Vietnam’s fast-evolving specialty-coffee scene, Refined. stands out not only for its concentrate on fantastic robusta, however for its unconventional enterprise mannequin and deeply cultural strategy to brewing.

On the middle of this motion is Vu Dình Tú, a former finance skilled turned roaster, barista, educator, and now innovator. We spoke with Tú about his journey—from bed room roasting classes to working espresso outlets in Hanoi and designing his personal phin filter, the Phinoi—all whereas redefining what Vietnamese espresso might be.

Vasileia Fanarioti: Tú, you’ve constructed one thing really distinctive with Refined.—particularly together with your “pay-as-you-feel” mannequin. How did that come about?

Tú: It occurred very naturally. To start with, I simply needed to roast espresso for myself and some pals. After leaving my finance job throughout the pandemic, I began roasting at house with a small borrowed roaster. After I opened my first tiny café—solely 27 sq. meters—it wasn’t meant to be a full store, only a place the place folks might purchase beans and discover ways to brew.

At first, I supplied free cups of espresso simply to share the expertise. However folks saved coming again, and ultimately somebody insisted on paying. They dropped cash right into a phin filter we had on the counter, and others began doing the identical. That’s how the mannequin was born. It wasn’t a method; it was a group selection.

And the way has it advanced since then?

For the primary two years, I used to be at all times the one behind the bar, so I might actually see how feelings affect what folks give. Some days, somebody would possibly put in 100 {dollars}. Different occasions, much less. However that’s the great thing about it. We nonetheless maintain the mannequin right this moment, for a couple of menu gadgets—largely our signature robusta drinks. There’s no mounted worth. It’s about belief and connection.

You additionally focus closely on fantastic robusta, which many individuals in specialty espresso nonetheless overlook. What impressed you to take that path?

I used to solely drink arabica too. However throughout my early roasting days, I found a fantastic robusta that modified the whole lot. I visited farms within the Central Highlands, talked with producers, and experimented with roast profiles. I noticed that, when correctly cultivated and processed, robusta might be simply as advanced and scrumptious as arabica. Nevertheless it’s been misunderstood—related to bitterness, low high quality, or components.

With Refined., I needed to vary that narrative. We now serve about 70% robusta throughout our outlets. And it’s not simply Vietnamese prospects—foreigners have gotten extra open to it too.

An enormous a part of that mission appears to be tied to the phin filter. Why is it vital to you?

The phin is a part of our cultural id, however many younger Vietnamese right this moment don’t know methods to use it. That nervous me. It’s like we’re dropping a chunk of who we’re. So final 12 months, I launched a undertaking to revamp the standard phin—conserving its essence however modernizing its design to enchantment to the following technology.

We now supply colourful, smooth phins that make brewing extra approachable and exquisite. We even debuted them (in Could) at World of Espresso in Jakarta, they usually have been offered out. It was a proud second to symbolize Vietnamese espresso on this manner.

So it’s not nearly serving espresso—it’s about preserving and reshaping a practice?

Precisely. In our outlets, we don’t simply hand folks a cup. We invite them to expertise the complete brewing course of: the aroma, the bloom, the pour. We began with no menu—simply black espresso or condensed milk. Ultimately, prospects introduced substances and challenged us to create new drinks. That’s how we constructed the menu, drink by drink, with them.

And what’s subsequent for you and Refined.?

I need to proceed connecting robusta with different components of Vietnamese tradition—like meals. We’ve began creating drinks that blend robusta with apricot or dracontomelon, each native fruits. The suggestions has been wonderful, even from vacationers. I additionally need to maintain mentoring younger baristas and provides them an actual profession path. Being a barista shouldn’t be only a scholar job. It’s a craft that deserves respect—and a residing wage.

One very last thing: What would you say to people who find themselves nonetheless skeptical about robusta?

I’d say: Neglect what you suppose you realize. Are available in, sit down, brew a cup with the phin, and style it for your self. Let the espresso converse. That’s all we ask.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Vasileia Fanarioti (she/her) is a senior on-line correspondent for Barista Journal and a contract copywriter and editor with a major concentrate on the espresso area of interest. She has additionally been a volunteer copywriter for the I’M NOT A BARISTA NPO, offering content material to assist educate folks about baristas and their work.

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