Mikolaj Pociecha continues his exploration of all issues canephora with his newest e book. At present, we share an outline and unique evaluate of the current launch.

BY TANYA NANETTI
SENIOR ONLINE CORRESPONDENT

Pictures courtesy of Mikolaj Pociecha

Mikolaj Pociecha is a family identify for anybody fascinated about discovering out extra about the canephora espresso species. A barista, roaster, and author, Mikolaj revealed a small e book a few years in the past known as “Canephora,” which, by way of interviews, technical insights, and deep reflections, introduces newbies and connoisseurs to the attention-grabbing world of canephora. After months of examine and analysis, Mikolaj is able to return to the topic because of his newest e book, “Robusta/Canephora (a short information to loving it),” a great sequel to the primary e book.

After lastly assembly Mikolaj in individual at the newest Amsterdam Espresso Competition, I had the distinctive alternative to learn the e book earlier than its official launch this previous Might—a chance that allowed me to seek out out extra about this typically missed species.

Preliminary Ideas + the E book’s Introduction

Proper from the primary web page, it’s clear what Mikolaj’s objective was in writing the e book, which was created with the aim of being “a beneficial useful resource for studying find out how to respect and work with canephora/robusta as a espresso skilled.” Mainly, the e book is a brief essay that may educate baristas and roasters (but in addition anybody merely within the topic) find out how to be taught to like the espresso species.

At first look, the e book’s record of its 20 chapters—which promise to cowl every part about robusta—already piqued my curiosity. Mikolaj’s journey guarantees to take readers from the fundamentals of the species to its particular flavors, to instructed methods on how finest to roast, put together, and revel in it—all peppered with interviews with some canephora connoisseurs.

Intrigued, I jumped into the studying.

After somewhat clarification on the aim of the e book (which was initially imagined to be targeted on find out how to roast canephora, however has since shifted to being a extra complete e book, to keep away from an excessive amount of heaviness), Mikolaj states within the introduction what the next chapters might be about: not solely offering beneficial insights into the roasting course of, but in addition “to focus on this matter together with others in relation to the species, folks, and the challenges we face.”

Delving Deeper

Lastly, it was time to begin the e book.

A short background of canephora—overlaying totally different information concerning the species, from genetics to the darkish historical past of espresso’s connection to colonialism—precedes a small chapter specializing in one of the best option to check with the species. Is it higher to go by the extra broadly used “robusta,” or is it higher to undertake the extra scientific time period “canephora”?

SPOILER: Each phrases have an extended historical past, and each can have optimistic and detrimental overtones, relying on the context (which is why, for the remainder of the piece, I’ll use them interchangeably). As Mikolaj explains, “The species was initially named ‘Coffea canephora’ by Luis Pierre in 1895. It was first despatched to Java, Indonesia (then a Dutch colony), below the identify ‘robusta’ between 1889 and 1900 by the Netherlands. For higher or worse, the identify caught.”

Mikolaj continues, “Robusta has typically been perceived as inferior, resulting in a stigma across the identify. On this context, the time period ‘Coffea canephora’ supplies some aid from that detrimental notion.”

Particular Friends All through the E book

After delving into the identify challenge, it’s time for Mikolaj to incorporate the primary of many attention-grabbing visitors. Right here, Isabelle Mani, a author and low researcher, shares all her information concerning the historical past and economics of robusta. This can be a temporary historical past of the species, from its unique “industrial” vacation spot to specialty canephora, with, in between, an attention-grabbing recollection of robusta’s rise in recognition as a result of unfold of soluble espresso post-World Conflict II.

Then comes a fast overview from Isabelle on robusta genetics and scientific analysis, and eventually, an outline of what’s taking place at the moment in relation to canephora (fermentation methods, the canephora aroma wheel, and so forth.).

From right here on, the e book goes on to combine chapters by Mikolaj himself (coping with the style of robusta, a recollection of one of the best robustas the writer has skilled through the years, and knowledge on one of the best water to make use of for brewing canephora) with another interviews. Judith Konsten, selector of Q Robusta and Q Arabica, presents the high-quality robusta and its distinctive qualities; Reza Nurullah, a espresso farmer from Central Java, shares his immense information of all issues robusta, together with his suggestions for processing, roasting, and brewing; and Rohan Kuriyan, a fifth-generation farmer from India specializing in espresso, tea, pepper, and areca nut, shares his household strategy to rising and processing robusta. 

Conclusion + A Remaining Visitor Creator

It’s then time for Mikolaj to conclude the e book with the 2 longest chapters, interrupted by the intervention of a last visitor speaker. The chapter “Recipes” is itself divided into two components, which embody recipes labeled “NA” (three separate recipes for ibrik, Pulsar, and pourover), and “The Bar,” which incorporates recipes for an espresso martini, negroni chilly brew and Irish espresso, utilizing canephora as the bottom for the espresso, which the books describes as excellent due to “its boldness, viscosity, and acquainted scrumptious espresso taste.”

The precious contribution by Bhavi Patel, “Tasting Canephora and Speaking About It,” is the final prolonged visitor essay included within the e book, earlier than Mikolaj takes the ground one final time for essentially the most essential half, “The Roasting Part.” As Mikolaj shares from the start, that is the primary matter he initially sought to cowl.

Analyzing every part there’s to know, from double-layer defects to temperature management, smokey and baked flavors, and so forth, this final chapter is a broad overview of every part associated to roasting canephora, together with tips for drum roasters and an instance of a roasting profile. Undoubtedly the toughest half to learn if you’re not already a roasting fanatic, with its many graphs and scientific and technical explanations, this final chapter is tailored for these already accustomed to roasting methods.

A E book for Newcomers and Connoisseurs Alike

Whatever the extra technical components of the e book, total, Mikolaj’s “Robusta/Canephora” is one thing that may enchantment to all those that are fascinated about studying extra about canephora—whether or not professionals or simply espresso lovers—because of the participating writing method and attention-grabbing matters coated.

As he got down to do from the very starting, Mikolaj has succeeded in hitting his aim in full: to completely clarify all of the nerdier issues about canephora, whereas sustaining a well-deserved deal with the folks and tales behind it, to present greater than needed that means and background. It’s positively a must-read for anybody even remotely fascinated about studying extra about robusta.

To order a replica, click on right here.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Tanya Nanetti (she/her) is a specialty-coffee barista, a traveler, and a dreamer. When she’s not behind the espresso machine (or visiting some hidden nook of the world), she’s busy writing for Espresso Riot, a web site about specialty espresso that she’s creating alongside along with her boyfriend.

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