Nasi Kandar, Roti, and Teh Tarik: meals in Northwestern Malaysia has an enchanting tie to India.

Come together with our author Oz as he shares his experiences with this distinctive fusion delicacies.

Discovering India in Malaysia

It’s been two years since my final journey to India. Typically, as I daydream, I can nonetheless hear the bikes honk in Delhi, scent the aromas of Masala chai within the morning, and style the spices of my favourite Mughlai curry.

I didn’t count on to come across my outdated recollections hundreds of miles away from the Indian subcontinent, in Malaysia. And but, my time within the Malay Peninsula proved to me once more that cultural interplay and trade are discovered in all places, and most significantly – will be fairly scrumptious.

Nasi Kandar: meals in Northwestern Malaysia

Once I first arrived in Langkawi, an island in Northwestern Malaysia, I didn’t know what to anticipate from Malaysian meals.

Earlier than the journey, out of curiosity, I spent a while watching and studying content material about Malaysian meals. I used to be significantly impressed by a sure video on Instagram, through which an limitless array of curries and sauces have been poured over yellow rice. “World’s Finest Nasi Kandar”, the title mentioned.

I had no concept what Nasi Kandar meant, nor what it tasted like. I simply knew – this was one thing that I positively needed to attempt.

As if it was a miracle, I noticed “Restoran Nasi Kandar Haji Ali” throughout a day stroll across the metropolis middle. Simple as that, I knew the place I used to be going to have my dinner.

Standing by the counter, I watch the proprietor flood my plate of rice with colourful curries, then add pickles and fried rooster on the facet.

The proprietor defined to me that that is known as Mamak meals, merely put Muslim Indian Malaysian meals. I nodded, curious and hungry, and sat right down to eat.

The primary chew was fully overwhelming. In a great way.

The concoction of sauces soaked completely into the aromatic, yellow rice, and the mustardy cabbage pickles have been a refreshing twist to this wealthy dish.

I used to be principally impressed with how Nasi Kandar was clearly of Indian origin, but on the similar time – Malaysian. I used to be wanting to be taught extra about this distinctive delicacies, to grasp higher what I used to be consuming and what function Malaysian-Indian meals has in Malaysia’s gastronomy.

India meets Malaysia: commerce and exploration

In accordance with historic sources, retailers and explorers from India have had contact with Malayan kingdoms for the reason that 1st to fifth centuries AD. By way of commerce and commerce, tradition and faith have been additionally unfold. Buddhist philosophy, Hindu structure, and Tamil folklore made their technique to the Southeast Asian Malay Peninsula.

And, with tradition and commerce, comes meals. They introduced elements comparable to coconut, eggplants, and mustard seeds, in addition to dishes like coconut-based curries and flaky paratha bread to the area.

Throughout the European colonization of Malaya, extra waves of immigration from India, (principally from the Southern state of Tamil Nadu) arrived within the British and Portuguese colonies of Malaya, with lots of the new migrants assimilating into the native inhabitants.

Hinduism in Malaysia

These days, most Malaysian Indians apply Islam, but you may also discover Hindu and Christian Indian communities in sure areas.

On my third day in Langkawi, I went on a street journey to be taught extra about Malaysia’s Hindu group.

I visited native temples and met members of the Hindu Tamil group. I discovered that the majority Hindus have certainly migrated from Tamil Nadu and have been dwelling in Malaysia for generations.

Opposite to Malaysia’s Indian Muslims, many Malaysian Hindus nonetheless lead their lives individually from the overall Malaysian inhabitants (particularly in rural areas), and thus Hindu delicacies in Malaysia is considerably similar to Tamil delicacies in India.

Indian Muslims in Malaysia

Indian Muslims, alternatively, opened Mamak stalls – indoor and open-air meals institutions nonetheless discovered at the moment that cater to the overall inhabitants, because the menu is diversified and costs are often low.

The phrase “Mamak”’ derives from the Tamil language, which means “maternal uncle”. Historically, the phrase was utilized by kids as an honorific to respectfully tackle adults.

Mamak meals has grow to be part of on a regular basis life for a lot of Malaysians, who could get pleasure from Teh Tarik (Malaysian-style Masala Chai) with Roti for breakfast, Nasi Kandar for lunch, and Mamak stir-fried noodles within the night.

These days, because of the reputation of Mamak meals, there are additionally comparable stalls run by native Malays and Chinese language-Malaysians.

Mamak curries served with Nasi Kandar

As I stored returning to Haji Ali restaurant, I began studying extra about Mamak meals. I used to be particularly within the curries which might be served with Nasi Kandar.

A lot of them are of Indian origin, however others are newer Malaysian innovations, utilizing non-Indian elements like candy soy sauce and Laksa leaves.

Ayam Kurma was one among my favourite curries to have tried on this journey. It’s an fragrant rooster curry, characterised by velvety, almost-white gravy. It introduced me again to my journey to Lucknow in Northern India, the place Mughlai royal delicacies can nonetheless be discovered. However, the Malaysian model is mellower and a bit sweeter than its Indian predecessor, making it a superb distinction to spicier curries that could be served with Nasi Kandar.

Malaysian fusion delicacies

As Mamak meals grew in reputation inside the normal inhabitants, Mamak cooks discovered themselves recreating and incorporating non-Indian dishes, comparable to Singaporean Kaya toast and Chinese language-Malaysian Char Kway Teow.

Mee Goreng (Mamak-style stir-fried hen noodles), as an illustration, has grow to be a preferred dish that may be present in nearly each Mamak restaurant, regardless of being of Chinese language origin.

In the identical approach, Pasembur, a salad of Indonesian origin, made its approach into many Mamak eating places in Northwestern Malaysia. Often known as Indian Rojak, Pasembur is fabricated from sliced fruit, greens, and fritters, drenched in a thick gravy fabricated from peanuts and/or shrimp paste.

Consolation meals for the soul in Malaysia

You will need to observe: that Malaysian-Indian meals is just not about wanting fairly. Garnishes and contemporary inexperienced greens are seldom used and dishes are typically on the heavier facet.

A meal at a Mamak restaurant won’t be photogenic sufficient on your subsequent Instagram submit, however will certainly fulfill your coronary heart and soul, comforting each inch of your physique.

Slowly and certainly, on account of commerce, faith, and necessity – a brand new delicacies has fashioned. Whereas innovation and adaptation have created new dishes, cooking strategies, and culinary ideas, India’s culinary spirit continues to be there, alive and kicking. I

f you look carefully, you would possibly get a glimpse of it, blessing the steaming pots of Mamak curries with their magical aromas.

Oz is initially from central Israel, and is at present based mostly in Amsterdam. Alongside being a jazz musician, he’s a devoted foodie and knowledgeable chef. He has traveled the world since 2021, exploring a few of his favorite cuisines comparable to Thai, Greek, Moroccan and rather more! His favorite technique to journey goes to meals markets and venues, interacting with the native individuals and listening to their tales by meals. He’s impressed by the unbreakable bond between a tradition and culinary traditions. By travelling and consuming, he enjoys witnessing how meals can affect and be influenced by historical past and cultural trade.