NWC – third April – SW France

The South West of France is clearly a big, various area for wine making. Our presenter this week wished to look extra on the native grapes than the extra worldwide varieties that always crop up.

Cajolle, Parlange & Illouz, 2021. You couldn’t want for a extra rustic begin. You may want for a extra pleasurable one although. This Jurancon Noir grape has by no means been written about as having nice pedigree and I discovered {that a} tough assertion to argue with. Very gentle within the glass it was bitter and fizzy with some pink fruits, apple, wild strawberry, cherry however finally inexperienced and under-ripe. There wasn’t common condemnation with some who like that kind of model having fun with it, assume Loire or Jura reds. £20

Le Champ d’Orphee, Cotes du Tarn, 2019. A brand new grape to me, Fer Servadou, which is commonly shortened to Fer. Initially there was a whiff of one thing vegetal however that blew off to disclose a little bit blackcurrant and pencil shavings. Palate had extra blackcurrant and berry alongside some fruit shortcake. Actually extra interesting than the final and a lot better size. £25

Irouleguy, Arretxea, 2020. Onto our first of some tannats and sometimes a wine that’s laborious work with uncompromising tannins. The darkness of the wine is straight away obvious and with fairly a purple hue. Ripe stewed fruits, plume and prune grow to be rather more savoury within the glass with these dry tannins at the back and front however with a pleasant freshness in the midst of the palate. Fairly drinkable, dare I say a BBQ wine. £25

Madiran Vielles Vignes, Labranche Laffont, 2020. A good quantity of attention-grabbing chat about micro oxygenation enhancing the drinkability of historically impenetrable wines and one thing that’s employed at this domaine. The nostril was a little bit porty, ripe fruits, raisin, some vanilla. Fairly candy onto the palate with blueberry and Cassis however retaining wonderful stability with a easy end. Very pleasurable, very drinkable if barely too polished for some trad Madiran lovers? £20

Madiran, Chateau D’Aydie, 2001. Not satisfied of how clear a bottle this was, definitely some cheesiness on the nostril. Maybe only a contact oxidised however cleaner on the palate with some blackcurrant, prune and liquorice. The age had softened it good and there was nonetheless some fruit however simply felt like a beneath par bottle. Present retail worth £30

Madiran, Chateau Peyros, 1995. Actually brown within the glass at virtually 30 years of age now. Tomato leaf nostril, a little bit heat earth. Not a lot fruit on the palate, some smooth cherry and baking spices. Not completely knackered however over the hill to my style. Not fully certain in the event that they nonetheless make this precise wine however I feel presently round £20.

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Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh, Labranche Laffont, 2020. This is similar space as Madiran however the whites and historically candy wines nevertheless the one we tried was sec (dry) with virtually no residual sugar. Grapes are Gros Manseng & Petit Manseng. The nostril was intense, waxy lemons, lanolin, guava. Wonderful fruit depth and a wealthy mouthful. Pithy citrus and quince, some ginger on the end. A powerful wine that’s one for wine lovers to ponder fairly than one thing for a cocktail party. £20

Preciouse, Jurancon Sec, Montesquiou, 2020. Once more Gros Manseng & Petit Manseng. Much less intense however comparable nostril, extra savoury and smoky. The topical notes right here had been richer dried pineapple. It did endure a little bit from following the extra ripe, intense wine that got here earlier than however nice size right here. In our midst was Leon who imported from this Domaine for a few years, his notes are far superior to mine:

A pale, limpid gold color. Aromas of lemon, lime oil, apple pie and dried herbs and spices greet the nostril, with background notes of moist stone, lanolin/wool, cardamom, honey and the faintest trace of previous(er) oak including real complexity. As all the time with this cuvée, the palate lives as much as the nostril, with all the pieces melding collectively in excellent concord – biting, but on the identical time caressing. Barely much less intense than earlier vintages, although probably much more advanced, this one affords tangy baked apple, quince, lime/lemon and herby/spicy flavours, balanced by a contact of nutty/oily richness and even a modicum of grape tannin, all wrapped round a core of saline minerality and mouth-watering acidity.

Not that I may emulate this however in my protection I’ve about 2 minutes to write down my observe in a room filled with loud opinionated wine-lovers and plenty of of those pretty wines must be contemplated for longer. Nice worth for cash from Leon’s web site at £15.50.

Ugo Sur le Fil, Jurancon Sec, Guirardel, 2016. Gros Manseng & Petit Manseng. Fairly heady aromas of blossom round a core of baked apple pie and honey. An oily highly effective palate that jogged my memory of Loire Chenin with a contact of burnt orange. Excessive alcohol stage although attributable to having to ferment all that sugar to achieve a dry wine. This divided opinion, some folks thought it was too pure however I actually didn’t get that. Nonetheless at £38 it could be laborious to suggest this over the opposite whites!

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Renaissance, Rotier, 2017. Into the candy wines, firstly from Gaillac and the uncommon Loin de L’Oeil grape. Smells like a wine with botrytis, tastes like a wine with botrytis. Missing acidity. Some would possibly like this model however too candy and cloying for me. £18

Supreme de Thou, Clos Thou, 2018. Way more prefer it. The ultimate three wines are all Petit Manseng from Jurancon. Actually lifted aroma of tinned peaches. Flavours of apricot and bitter orange. Good acidity. £18

Grappe d’Or, Jurancon, Montesquiou, 2004. With age there was a extra outstanding burnt caramel right here however nonetheless stone fruit and different complexities I didn’t have lengthy sufficient to unpick. Extra fruit on the palate and amazingly recent acidity nonetheless. I obtained apricot, pineapple and pink grapefruit. A observe from a latest classic from Leon:

The grapes for this wine are harvested deep into November, by which period they’ve begun to dry on the vine, concentrating the flavours, while retaining the entire bracing acidity which is the hallmark of Petit Manseng. The color is a shiny, straw/yellow gold. The nostril has all the pieces – tangy lemon and lime oil, baked apples and apricots, with hints of fig, toffee, ginger and unique spices and herbs. And it virtually goes with out saying that you could odor the everyday steely, stream-fresh Petit Manseng minerality. The palate hits you with a mouthful of wealthy apricot and peach flavours, with a gently viscous texture and all method of tangy, recent and preserved citrus and tree fruit flavours. On the identical time, you get a veritable wave of nervy acidity and steely minerality, adopted by a cool spice and ginger hit on the finish. Nothing stands proud, and all of it comes collectively fantastically, in a wine that retains you coming again for extra.

It’s out there from his web site at £20.

Les Jardins de Babylone, Didier Dagueneau, 2007. A uncommon deal with to complete from an amazing winemaker of the Loire who additionally made this candy wine in Jurancon. The nostril was a litte richer than the Grappe d’Or, baked apple and vanilla. Wonderful acidity on the palate that just about jogged my memory of an ice wine. The tropical notes of youth appear to be giving far more to peach, marmalade and a end of iced tea. Scrumptious and one I want I had had longer to ponder. Now £100 for 50cl (!!)

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