You understand these 90s rom-coms, the place there was the nerdy woman at school who the cool-guy/jock sort finally ends up falling for? Porto is that woman.
As a metropolis, it’s been quietly effervescent underneath for some time now. In comparison with the large quantities of consideration Lisbon receives throughout the media, Porto has been comparatively fairly quiet. However not anymore. The vitality and ambiance in Porto is totally electrical right here in 2025, with an impressive espresso scene serving to to prepared the ground.
With the signature bridges, a world-famous river chopping by, famend wine manufacturing, slender cobbled streets, gorgeous museums, stop-you-in-your-tracks tiles, gildings and sculptures scattered all through town, and palatial buildings and church buildings, there may be simply a lot to like about this place. Let’s go exploring, and go to among the most interesting cafes Porto has to supply right this moment.
Protest Kitchen
I’m unsure what precisely they’re protesting at Protest Kitchen. My guess could be… guidelines, pretense, labels and expectations, and the thought of being outlined as a particular restaurant. To do that, there’s a freedom on supply, in a menu that sprawls its means throughout and into every kind of cuisines—with influences from Turkey, Russia, Georgia, and Cyprus—reflecting the roots of homeowners Pedro Baumgarten and Andrey Mikheev. The final vitality and angle appear to match this punky strategy to the meals, with a declaration scribbled throughout the window. It reads: “Common vibe, extraordinary meals, drinkable espresso.”
The irony, after all, is that that is all bullshit.
The vibe is sensible, the meals is extraordinary, and the espresso memorable. That is all made potential with old style hospitality. With a staff that welcomes you into an area that (intentionally?) feels prefer it could possibly be your front room, there’s a sort-of elevated execution that interprets into every part—be it a cardamom bun, a thick bowl of hummus, or a plate of smoked salmon and simit (a sesame-crusted, chewy Turkish bread that’s related but in addition fairly totally different to a bagel). That execution is obvious within the espresso, too. An Ethiopia V60 from Dak Espresso Roasters offers vibrant peach and nectarine notes with calming chamomile, balanced with a wonderfully acidic end. Protest Kitchen leans on Baumgarten to curate and drive the espresso program right here, and he’s doing a banging job, with beans on rotation from native roasters like SO Espresso Roasters, or worldwide friends like Friedhats from Amsterdam.
A La Marzocco Linea Traditional EE espresso machine and an accompanying Victoria Arduino Mythos One grinder for espresso—in addition to a separate Eureka Atom Professional for filter—present that, regardless of their finest efforts to persuade you in any other case, this staff takes what they do significantly. Alongside the espresso, milk-based drinks, and batch brew and V60 choices, there may be the weird presence of a Café Freddo—a nod to the robust, foamy coffees loved in Greek tradition. This completely sums up Protest Kitchen and their anti-conformist strategy.
A Sure Cafe
Orson Welles is credited with the quote, “The enemy of artwork is the absence of limitations.” Such is the scene at A Sure Cafe, a restaurant that greets its patrons with the (daring) declaration on the street-facing home windows that they solely supply filter espresso. Homeowners Matias Romano and Agustina Fortunato have managed to reply the query of how one can serve a well-thought-out espresso menu with out an espresso machine. They’ve performed this by placing collectively one of many smartest interpretations of a drip-only cafe you’ll discover anyplace in Europe.
A part of that is achieved by quite a lot of brew strategies—AeroPress, Kalita, V60, and Moccamaster. A part of it’s achieved by variations in parts (medium and enormous choices for all filter espresso). A part of additionally it is achieved by enjoyable and artistic descriptors on the menu. To deal with the flat-white-elephant within the room, they merely steam milk with a handheld wand and checklist a menu merchandise as “Foamy.” The milk is added to the filter. Genius. The “Foamy” hedges in opposition to expectations, because it’s not pretending to be a conventional flat-white, nor a cappuccino. It additionally permits the staff to focus squarely on perfecting the filter espresso they know and love. (Spoiler alert: they’re completely crushing it.)
Beans on my final go to got here from native roastery Von&Vonnie, with different choices coming from Spanish-based Hola Espresso Roasters. A Moccamaster KBGT741 helps maintain batch brews constant.
Set in a hovering room with voluminous ceilings, mild pours in by A Sure Cafe’s entrance home windows, instantly offering a vibrant, uncluttered vitality. The décor is minimalistic, offset with placing artwork, sculptures, glassware, and numerous retro-ish gadgets, together with chairs, glasses, and cutlery. It’s lovely and is no surprise given the {couples}’ backgrounds as an artist (Romano) and a jewellery designer (Fortunato). The artistic streak is additional on show within the type of impartial, indie magazines and books, which can be found for searching and buy. There’s a devoted space readily available for showcasing native artists’ work, too.
The creativity on show continues by an ever-evolving meals menu. Paying tribute to the standard Portuguese set menu (one soup, one primary, one dessert), A Sure Cafe interprets this with their very own aptitude. The construction of the standard menu stays, however ambitions are clear, with dishes like cabbage, onion, fondue cheese, and bread as a soup providing. A primary meal could possibly be (as on my go to): “pork ft broth with fried octopus and kale.” Not your typical cafe fare—and it’s not your typical cafe expertise.
Combi
The story of this cafe and roastery begins with neither cafe nor roastery. It begins, the truth is, with a van. Not any van. A ‘75 Mercedes N1300, to be actual. Brothers Gonçalo and Francisco Cardoso purchased the car a decade in the past and painstakingly restored it, changing it to its former glory and making a cellular espresso unit for festivals and markets.
The enterprise took off.
With growing demand, the brothers started roasting beans from an deserted storage in Rua de Morgado de Mateus. Once more, the demand was rising, and fairly shortly (in 2017), that area was transformed into a restaurant, the place it stays right this moment. As a substitute of a chilly, industrial area (which you would possibly count on with the sort of conversion), the cafe makes use of touches of darkish wooden and loads of greenery so as to add heat. It’s a comfy, how-much-coffee-have-we-even-had-since-we-arrived sort of setup. You simply don’t wish to depart.
With a transparent give attention to sourcing high quality inexperienced coffees, Cardoso advised me that beans are roasted “in line with what we consider will give the tip buyer the perfect expertise for that bean.” He stresses the shopper all through the dialog: “Our goal is to slowly, slowly take individuals who have current concepts of what espresso is and to introduce them to specialty espresso. Now we have to be affected person to do that. Individuals have been ingesting low-cost espresso for years—even many years—and all we wish is to create a cup of espresso that they’ll nonetheless get pleasure from, just a bit bit extra. We aren’t serving wild, loopy coffees as a result of we wish to serve espresso that individuals need. And we do. We simply do it in our personal means.”
An ideal instance of that is within the growth of their signature drinks, the place yow will discover The Mazagran. Usually credited because the world’s first iced espresso, this drink tracks again to 1840, the place ingenious French troops stationed in Algeria have been pressured (with dwindling provides) to combine their espresso with sweetened water as an alternative of the popular milk. Later, the troopers launched the drink to areas of France, and it will definitely made its means into different elements of Europe. Portugal’s historic attachment to this drink is especially robust, and Combi’s model includes a double shot of espresso, freshly squeezed lemon juice, sugar, a handful of ice, soda water, and lemon zest. Producing this drink, in addition to quite a lot of milk-based and pour-over choices, requires some hard-working gear, and the staff strikes with velocity and effectivity, leaping from a Mahlkönig E80S GBW grinder to a custom-made La Marzocco KB90.
With the evolution of Combi, a second retailer has been constructed. This new store now homes the Joper BR5 Premium roaster, which has been moved from the OG area. Like the unique cafe, this store additionally serves as a restaurant for individuals to sit down and luxuriate in Combi espresso.
The Cardoso brothers have been on the forefront of specialty espresso in Porto for greater than a decade. You can’t have a dialog about specialty espresso on this metropolis with out mentioning them. They’ve seen companies come and go and have ridden out market adjustments, provider challenges, and that pesky little pandemic. By means of all of it, they’ve survived and one way or the other grown. They’re passionate, exhausting working entrepreneurs who clearly nonetheless have a starvation to unfold their information of specialty espresso. Porto is fortunate to have them.
Von&Vonnie
One of the crucial thrilling roasteries in Porto may also be one of the thrilling roasteries in Europe. Von&Vonnie is making waves throughout town, and for good motive. Situated in an space barely faraway from the popular—and anticipated—neighborhoods of Porto, house owners Morgan von Mantripp and Yvonne Spresny appear snug in forging their very own path, even when it’s a barely much less overwhelmed one. Non-conformity appears to be a little bit of a tenet for this couple, who’re companions inside and out of doors of the 4 partitions that make up this rising microroastery. Their chosen web site has much less foot visitors than many different fancied areas in Porto, however that doesn’t deter loads of native and worldwide friends from visiting.
The espresso right here actually is phenomenal. On the day, a selection of eight varieties for beans, all of them roasted by von Mantripp utilizing a Stronghold S7 Professional. Two Bentwood Vertical 63 grinders for espresso; one particularly for milk-based variations and a separate one for straight espresso. A Ditting 807 Lab Candy takes care of the pour-over grind. They’re not messing round. The beans supply a range in taste, all of them underpinned by methodical sourcing rules. The profiles cater to the much less widespread (pure Sumatra Indonesia, anybody?) or extra muted/conventional choices (a washed Huehuetenango Guatemala serves as a reminder of how good “easy” espresso may be). Von&Vonnie has these extremes coated, in addition to every part in between. Espresso is introduced on metal trays with considerate, thought of tasting playing cards that designate the espresso exactly, with out being pretentious.
Do you want clear, vibrant, ethereal white rooms with soothing background music? Do you want combined supplies, with exhausting cement sitting comfortably alongside delicate, breezy curtains? Von&Vonnie is your jam. Pops of pastel colours, retro, mismatched furnishings. Freakin’ candles, you guys. That sit on freakin’ marble tables. It’s attractive—a degree of element that’s really uncommon to search out. Curved traces, an enormous window dealing with the road, floating cabinets full of beans and brew gear. It has all of it. The cream Victoria Arduino Eagle One sitting on the counter helps full the tableau.
With a small bakery on web site, they craft a always evolving pastry choice right here. You would possibly get your self a slice of Earl Gray cake (like I did), or a cardamom-spiked brioche bun piped with blueberry cream. You would bump right into a thick, matcha cookie, a pão de queijo (suppose tacky, puffy, mild balls of calorific masterpiece), or a wonderfully executed banana bread.
Von Mantripp and Spresny met in Southeast Asia, and the dream for what’s now Von&Vonnie has grown over years, together with the couple’s relationship. You get the sensation of actual care and actual love for the work on this area, translated into each cup, each chew of meals, and each element. (What number of manufacturers are you aware who level out, by way of a particular sticker, when a espresso is spearheaded by a lady producer?) There’s a give attention to sustainability and transparency that basically “walks the stroll” right here. It drives them, versus merely being one other model with one other advertising angle. They’re telling a narrative right here and doing their finest to serve one thing that transcends no matter is in your cup.
Senzu Espresso Roasters
The house owners of Senzu Espresso Roasters include severe pedigree. Diogo Amorim based the enterprise, with a résumé boasting a Grasp’s Diploma in Worldwide Relations, a Grasp’s Diploma in Economics and Science, in addition to a Grasp’s Diploma in Espresso. The dude is a licensed espresso geek, by any metric. Gianpiero Zignoni (ex-Vernazza Espresso Roasters) and David Coelho (ex-7g Roaster) have since joined the staff, offering deep experience in areas like advertising, enterprise growth, and consumer relations. These three have all earned their stripes the old style means, with greater than a decade of hard-earned expertise. It reveals, in the way in which Senzu has gone from energy to energy over the previous few years.
The simplest technique to measure this success is to easily stroll round Porto and see what number of top-quality venues are proudly stocking their beans. With a rigorous strategy of high quality management (Amorim has additionally based the SCA-certified Abcoffee coaching college in Porto, so he clearly is well-equipped for this), the religion proven in Group Senzu is obvious by the partnerships they get pleasure from. In addition they supply a possibility to get pleasure from their espresso vary as filter, V60, or chilly brew at Cru Artistic Hub, a co-working area populated primarily with creatives. Right here, the espresso bar is open to the Cru group, in addition to friends off the road. A formidable lineup of beans greets guests, with each choice taken care of. A straightforward, accessible washed Ethiopia Keramo for some, and on the opposite finish of the sliding scale, a extra progressive, lactic Native Aroma Colombia. With the beans expertly roasted on web site, there is a chance to have an “on a regular basis” espresso or one thing a bit extra experimental.
Or each, in case you’re so inclined! The staff at Senzu has some superb new initiatives coming quickly—you’ll want to verify again right here at Sprudge for more information on their rising footprint in Porto.
Época
Época is the type of restaurant that you may go to every single day of the week and luxuriate in each single time. After all, you need to begin with espresso. With rotating beans from most popular suppliers, you’ll typically discover a native, Porto roastery represented. For instance, on my go to Von&Vonnie’s Primavera Sisterhood washed Guatemala was served as batch brew, courtesy of a Moccamaster. Sharing the countertop is a hard-working Iberital, described by proprietor Liliana Alves as “nothing fancy,” and a Mahlkönig EK43 grinder to deal with the espresso-based drinks for the cafe. This offhand touch upon the machine completely sums up Época’s unassuming angle—the staff merely wish to put smiles on faces; they appear unaware of how good they’re at what they do.
After which there’s the meals. The primary part of the menu is (very cleverly) structured round a brilliant fundamental components. Sourdough bread as a base, with numerous toppings so as to add. I do know, I do know; this doesn’t sound thrilling. However what if mentioned sourdough was, the truth is, extra of a hunk of bread than a dainty slice? And what if it was provided by native indie/culty hole-in-the-wall pizza joint Generosa Porto? What if mentioned toppings have been issues like labneh with paprika butter, or comté cheese that has been matured for 30 months, or in-house strawberry jam with fennel seeds, or whipped feta with contemporary thyme and chili flakes? Or, or, or… It’s all impossibly scrumptious. Even “easy” toppings of additional virgin olive oil, or natural roasted almond butter, are one way or the other memorable.
There are different breakfast gadgets: creamy, slow-cooked oats get boosted with roasted pears and cacao nibs, granola is served with roasted banana, and eggs are poached and ladled onto thick yogurt. With an in depth drinks menu, there’s a deep degree of curation that has gone into the number of pure wines, kombuchas, and teas. Organize them, after all, or select a cortado and a bowl of the tiramisu to finish your meal the identical means you began it—with scrumptious espresso. As you do, try to work out how they handle to make such easy issues so deeply complicated.
Hakko
The issue with attempting to do every part on the highest degree is the apparent threat of ending up doing nothing at that degree. As a substitute, settling right into a sea of averageness. A form-of… hospitality mediocrity. That is the problem that comes with ambition.
Which makes Hakko that rather more spectacular. Not solely has proprietor Tiago Teixeira taken a swing for the fences by tackling nearly each single factor in-house, however he has additionally completely crushed it.
Bread is baked every day on web site, there’s a stellar espresso lineup, and the meals—as we’ve seen elsewhere in Porto—is excellent cafe fare, together with exact breakfast choices, comforting lunch plates, attention-grabbing rotating specials, and an absolute belter of a pastry case. Tick, tick, tick, and tick.
Don’t be fooled by the modest facade. Look a bit nearer and you may see, by a street-facing hatch, the hallmarks of a venue that cares about their espresso program. All of the giveaways are there, together with a powder blue La Marzocco Linea Mini, a Mahlkönig EK43 for pour-overs, and the Mahlkönig E65S for espresso-based choices. There are V60, Orea V3, and Kalita Wave variations to select from, in addition to a batch brew. The anticipated scales and kettles underline that you’re in very, excellent palms right here.
As for what beans are going into mentioned grinders, the staff “retains issues attention-grabbing” with an all-star lineup of roasters starting from native choices like SO Espresso Roasters to different elements of Europe—together with Copenhagen stalwarts La Cabra and Espresso Collective—and even a European Onyx Espresso Lab, which is, curiously, now being roasted and distributed by Manhattan Espresso Roasters.
Inside Hakko, the menu displays the broad and deep vary of expertise on supply. The French toast is much more than the sum of its elements. Brioche bread (sure, baked in-house), caramelized till the sides are barely charred, is then dressed with a lemony, cardamom-spiked caramel sauce and completed with wealthy olive oil. It could possibly be straightforward to put in writing this off as one other brunchy, stylish dish, however right here at Hakko, it reveals steadiness and an understanding of taking large, sturdy flavors and introducing them to friends in approachable methods. Identical with the “marinara eggs,” which sees brown butter and a punchy tomato sauce as Hakko’s model of the almost-standard-at-a-cafe-nowadays shakshuka. A brief lunch menu reveals off specials which are heartier, with a Japanese curry being an instance of how the kitchen takes affect from Asian delicacies and meals philosophies.
“Hakko” is a Japanese phrase for “fermentation,” and there are clues all through the menu of this technique to tease out flavors, with vinegars, pickles, miso, gochujang, and soy sauce all getting used to good impact.
With edgy, sporadically-placed artwork, vinyl spinning, neon lighting fixtures, and mismatched retro furnishings, Hakko is undeniably cool. Locations like this typically get labeled with the dreaded and overused “hipster” tag. To make use of it right here could be a large mistake. To take action right here could be to miss the big quantity of labor that goes into executing a menu as numerous as this, and to do it so damned effectively. Hakko will not be a bakery, and it’s not a restaurant, and it’s not a espresso store, and it’s not a restaurant. It’s like a secret, fifth factor. No matter it’s, it has substance. Wherever it’s, it’s price celebrating.
Andy Fenner is a contract journalist based mostly in Lisbon. Learn extra Andy Fenner for Sprudge.
