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The push for novel varieties is bringing missed coffees again into the highlight


Estimated studying time: 8 minutes

Key takeaways

  • Gesha has returned to dominance at current espresso competitions.
  • Worth volatility has slowed the broader launch of recent espresso varieties.
  • Opponents now mix liberica with high-scoring heaps.
  • Local weather resilience is rising funding in missed species like liberica and excelsa.

Specialty espresso is at all times chasing “new” and thrilling varieties, and competitions are the clearest sign of the place its search is heading. For years, the extremely prized Gesha dominated the World Barista and Brewers Cup Championships, chosen for its excessive cup scores and flavour complexity.

The early 2020s, nevertheless, marked a turning level. “Rediscovered” coffees started showing on the world stage. On the 2021 World Barista Championship (WBC), extra finalists introduced with eugenioides, a lesser-known Coffea species prized for its sweetness and unconventional tasting notes, than with Gesha.

The development continued. On the 2023 occasion, Gesha shared the stage with a number of “new” varieties, together with Pink Bourbon, Ombligon, and Typica Mejorado. The winner, Boram Um, even blended Gesha with Pink Bourbon, an indication that these coffees have been difficult the range’s long-held dominance.

But the final two years present the development is reversing. Nearly each 2025 WBC finalist used Gesha, and all however one of many 2026 World Brewers Cup finalists did the identical, suggesting a return to acquainted flavour profiles.

Extra telling nonetheless, rivals are actually mixing liberica, a traditionally missed species, with Gesha slightly than constructing their displays round unique varieties.

With costs nonetheless unstable and the local weather disaster worsening, the urge for food for novelty is being redirected towards coffees the business already is aware of. For coffees like liberica and excelsa, it’s an opportunity for reinvestment.

You may additionally like our article on the rise of African espresso varieties in El Salvador.

Michael Harris Conlin competes at the 2025 World Barista Championship.Michael Harris Conlin competes at the 2025 World Barista Championship.

Worth volatility has modified priorities

Competitors-winning varieties like Sidra and Papayo nonetheless have their place at competitions and on espresso store cabinets. Nonetheless, the speed of recent releases from roasters has slowed significantly. The place a brand new selection as soon as appeared available on the market each few months, the pipeline has just lately thinned.

The economics clarify why. Producers and roasters have each weathered intense worth volatility over the past two years, pushing them in direction of cost-effective heaps that may be grown and bought at scale. Thrilling varieties are nonetheless a singular speaking level, however they don’t supply the consistency and quantity that espresso companies now want.

“The preliminary pleasure round rediscovered coffees was pushed by curiosity,” says Michael Harris Conlin, a three-time Philippine Barista Champion and founding father of Henry & Sons, which just lately gained Gold within the Flat White Dairy class on the 2026 World Espresso Awards Asia

The business hasn’t stopped trying to find new coffees, Michael says, nevertheless it has develop into extra life like about what it takes for a range, or species, to develop into commercially significant.

“As soon as the thrill settles, producers should ask a lot tougher questions,” he tells me. “Is it productive? Is it resilient? Can it’s grown persistently? How troublesome is it to course of? Will consumers assist it past competitions? Can the market afford it?”

Michael agrees that curiosity is without doubt one of the elements driving specialty espresso ahead, however says we needs to be cautious to not confuse rarity with worth.

“Typically we develop into so targeted on discovering the following thrilling selection that we overlook the unimaginable potential already rising round us,” he tells me. “Espresso shouldn’t be celebrated just because only some individuals have tasted it, however as a result of it creates worth for producers, customers, and the long-term sustainability of the entire business.”

Excelsa Coffee Company with a large pile of green excelsa coffee bags.Excelsa Coffee Company with a large pile of green excelsa coffee bags.

The highlight is popping in direction of liberica and excelsa

On the 2025 World Barista Championship, a number of rivals stood out through the use of liberica – a uncommon espresso species that accounts for lower than 2% of world manufacturing.

Malaysia’s Jason Lavatory secured fourth place by mixing Malaysian liberica with a Panama Gesha, and Michael blended a Philippine liberica and a Colombian eugenioides in his routine. 

Michael tells me his journey with liberica started in 2020 when he visited a uncared for farm in Santa Maria, Laguna, the Philippines. Seeing its potential, he labored with the area people to enhance the standard of their espresso via farm rejuvenation, higher soil administration, and improved processing strategies.

“I discovered that you would be able to’t strategy liberica the identical manner you’ll a Gesha,” Michael explains. “Its bean density, chemistry, and sensory profile require a unique philosophy, from cultivation and processing to roasting and brewing.

“Moderately than attempting to make liberica style like an arabica, we have to develop methods that deliver out the perfect expression of what liberica naturally has to supply.”

In addition to liberica, there was rising curiosity in excelsa. As soon as categorized below liberica within the twentieth century, there’s now a transparent distinction between the 2 species.

“The visibility and understanding of excelsa have by no means been extra profound,” says Michael Mazzotta, co-founder of Excelsa Espresso Firm. Presently, excelsa principally comes from South and Southeast Asian international locations like India, Vietnam, Indonesia, and the Philippines, however different nations, corresponding to Kenya, Sudan, and Nicaragua, present potential.

“Drought-prone climates are making conventional espresso tougher to develop, and producers are excelsa for its local weather resilience,” says Olin Patterson, co-founder of Excelsa Espresso Firm. “In locations just like the Philippines, producers see excelsa as a premium crop with actual market potential.”

Monogram Coffee team talking with producers at wet mill.Monogram Coffee team talking with producers at wet mill.

Extra range advantages the espresso business

Opponents will maintain innovating, trying to find “new” varieties and mixing “missed” coffees with high-scoring heaps. In flip, specialty espresso positive factors entry to new flavour profiles whereas reinvesting in coffees which have traditionally obtained little consideration for his or her high quality potential.

“Our curiosity and need for brand new experiences are a part of what makes us human, so it’s solely becoming that we’re on the hunt for all these experiences in espresso as nicely,” says Jill Hoff, Director of Espresso at Monogram Espresso and the 2026 Canadian Barista Champion. For her profitable routine, Jill blended an Indonesian liberica with Chakira, a range the Koyner household just lately found in Panama.

“The Chakira is tremendous balanced and has some good tender fruit notes that translate very well to espresso,” she explains. “The liberica had some larger, funkier fruits that supplied one thing distinctive to my espresso mix, and tasted scrumptious within the milk course.

“Each thematically and flavour-wise, these coffees match completely into my presentation.”

Safeguarding espresso’s future

By combining unique varieties with species like liberica and excelsa, rivals create flavour experiences neither espresso may ship alone. However larger elements are additionally at play, significantly local weather change.

“Liberica has the power to thrive in hotter climates, which may make it develop into extra outstanding sooner or later,” Jill says.

Michael and Olin at Excelsa Espresso Firm each attribute the renewed curiosity in excelsa to local weather pressures. Excelsa vegetation develop giant, so they supply shade cowl for smaller crops, which diversifies income for producers and protects biodiversity.

“This creates a extra various, shade-grown system that may defend soil, scale back chemical inputs, and sluggish the event of the espresso cherry in a manner that may enhance cup high quality,” Olin explains.

Excelsa Coffee team with producers on a farm.Excelsa Coffee team with producers on a farm.

Specialty espresso’s seek for novelty is shifting route. Moderately than chasing uncommon varieties, rivals now pair confirmed excessive scorers like Gesha with missed species corresponding to liberica. The outcome advantages producers, who acquire reinvestment in crops the business lengthy ignored.

“I consider we’re getting into a brand new chapter the place innovation is changing into much less about discovering one other uncommon selection and extra about understanding how genetics, terroir, fermentation, processing, roasting, and brewing work collectively,” Michael concludes. “The way forward for espresso high quality will possible come from this mix slightly than from genetics alone.”

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Espresso varieties FAQs

Why has the discharge of recent espresso varieties slowed?
Producers and roasters have confronted two years of worth volatility, pushing them in direction of cost-effective heaps they’ll develop and promote at scale. New varieties stay a speaking level, however they not often supply the consistency and quantity companies now want.

What are liberica and excelsa?
Liberica is a uncommon espresso species that accounts for lower than 2% of world manufacturing. Excelsa, as soon as categorized below liberica, is now recognised as distinct. Each develop primarily in South and Southeast Asia and tolerate hotter, drought-prone climates.

How does local weather change have an effect on selection alternative?
Drought-prone areas are making arabica tougher to develop, so producers are turning to resilient species. Excelsa vegetation additionally present shade cowl for smaller crops, which protects soil and biodiversity whereas diversifying income for farming communities.


Picture credit: Michael Harris Conlin, Jill Hoff, Michael Mazzotta

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