“It’s partly for good luck,” confessed an elated Kiyoshi Kimura to the press thronging him, moments after he paid a record-breaking $3.2 million at public sale on Monday, January 5, for the largest and most fascinating Pacific bluefin, an enormous 535-pounder, within the Toyosu Market’s clamorous first bluefin public sale of the brand new 12 months. “However after I see a handsome tuna, I can not resist. I haven’t tasted it but, but it surely’s received to be scrumptious.” 

That’s an understatement from the proprietor of Japan’s Sushi Zanmai restaurant chain, replete for the sale in his regulation bloodstain-proof, blaze-white nylon market jacket, underneath which a jolly orange necktie may very well be seen. Kimura’s well-merited nationwide nickname is “The Tuna King.” His heart-stopping $3.2 million bid for this gleaming, contemporary deep-blue fish smashed the earlier Toyosu Market report by greater than one million {dollars}, set by Kimura (at $2.1 million) in 2019. It’s thought-about a matter of nice status in addition to a harbinger of excellent fortune to take the massive fish on the market’s annual kickoff sale. We may fairly say that “Tuna King” Kimura is perennially within the tumble on the occasion: He received the largest bluefin of the brand new 12 months six occasions previous to the market’s 2018 transfer to its new Toyosu facility.   

Why the costliest tuna isn’t bought at a revenue

The 2026 value works out to about $ 6,000 per pound for this bluefin. However it’s a bellwether of the broad cultural regard during which the Japanese maintain this explicit species inside their delicacies, in addition to a pointy metric of the honour of with the ability to butcher and to serve it, that the winners of the Toyosu new 12 months’s bluefins don’t promote the fish to their clients at or above the public sale value. Somewhat, they dive into the gross sales fray figuring out they may lose cash, usually substantial sums. Of their eating places, as Kimura modestly famous of his personal chain within the aftermath of Monday’s daybreak sale, the successful fish is priced like every other bluefin on the desk.  

Kimura, who based his restaurant chain at Tsukiji Market, the predecessor to the Toyosu Market, in 1979, instantly had the bluefin transported – by hand, on a picket cart – to his flagship restaurant on the Toyosu Market, the place it was placed on regal show on the entrance of the store. Notably, the massive bluefin, at 535 kilos, nearly double the burden of a mature North American buck, was caught off Oma, a tiny fishing city on the northernmost level of Honshu Island, upon which Tokyo lies. 

Why Oma produces Japan’s best bluefin

Right here’s the important thing: The strait between Honshu and its northern neighbor, Hokkaido Island, connects the North Pacific with the Sea of Japan. This implies the interaction of those huge waters and their respective shoals sluices large colleges of baitfish that shelter within the strait, which is why the waters off Oma benefit from the renown as a feeding floor for the Japanese fishery’s greatest bluefins. Toyosu Market’s first and largest bluefin of 2025, a 608-pounder, was additionally caught off the shores of Oma. Not coincidentally, in a single shard of excellent information out of the oceans lately, the bluefin inhabitants within the North Pacific, lengthy feared endangered, is taken into account to be on the rebound.  

From muscle to marbling, how bluefin is judged

As ever in issues bluefin in Japan, it’s all in regards to the delicacies. What the patrons are in search of is the grain of the flesh and the flavorful white-line marbling of the ultra-nutritious fats. To disclose that, in addition to different qualities of the actual bluefin up on the market, Toyosu Market’s butchers make one lengthy lower alongside the decrease physique to open the stomach wall of muscle with out gutting the fish, they usually make a second conventional lower perpendicular to the axis of the fish by slicing off the tail fin with a few steaks’ price of the tail itself, sticking that piece in one of many huge gill openings up by the pinnacle in order that it received’t be misplaced.

Thus laid out, minus their tails and mendacity side-by-side in the marketplace’s viewing pallets, the tightly muscled fish seem like so many hydrodynamic silver-and-blue artillery shells, torpedoes maybe, of a particular type.  

The bluefin attains its torpedo-like prime cruising velocity of round 45 miles an hour simply as a result of the primary locomotive muscle groups engaged are the lengthy ones positioned excessive up, near the backbone — together with, in cooks’ phrases, the backstraps, or filets. Different species depend on the muscle groups just below their pores and skin.

Because it cuts by means of colleges of bait in a feeding frenzy, the bluefin swims with brute energy from its dorsal facet. The muscle groups up there carry little fats. Within the bluefin, that is why the units of muscle groups with the heaviest marbling of the prized fats, or in sushi communicate, toro, are discovered reverse the backbone, down within the stomach. These fatty chunks of the stomach wall are the sashimi items that actually soften in your mouth. The lengthy, tenderloin steaks up prime yield the sushi.  

All that energy and blood and motion is tasteable in bluefin. For his central function in delivering these 535 kilos of severely ravishing taste from the deep ocean off Oma to the general public, the Tuna King was fairly sanguine about having to half with $3.2 million in an eyeblink on Monday morning. Kimura is, in any case, no virgin at Toyosu. He’d gone in eager to pay much less, arguably so much much less, however what’s “extra” and what’s “much less” tends to blur when confronted with a quarter-ton peak bluefin at market in Japan.

Within the occasion, the market, within the type of the white-hot bidding, paid its personal tribute to the fish. The victorious Kimura put it this fashion: “The value shot up earlier than you knew it.”